Converting stomp shear to air

[Shoneyboy]

I have read several post about with questions about this on this great site. I want to convert my stomp shear to air. I have read some old post about what I would need to convert the shear, 2-4” hydraulic cylinders (E-bay $200.00), a pneumatic foot peddle ($60.00), two regulators (shop extras) and some air hose/fittings(shop extras). I had planned on using one regulator one the inlet side and one on the out let side to slow the exhaust so it doesn’t actuate too fast. Would anyone have a recommendation on how to install it to the shear? Most of what I do in my shop is 26-24gage galvanized, but every now and then I have to cut 16 gage black iron 48”. Before I screwed anything up, I thought I would ask and hope someone that has done this before would give their thoughts. Thanks for the help ShoneyBoy

[Gladwin-Omaha]

Send a message to Stickman. I know he did a pneumatic conversion a few years ago.

[jilt]

I converted my Chinese brown boggs 52" a few years ago. I used a couple of air cylinders I got off ebay. Just recently I upgraded it to larger, better cylinders. It works great but I only cut 22, 24, and 26 guage. The old cylinders were just a bit under sized and I needed to help some of the 22 ga cuts. It now has (2) 2 1/2" x 12" cylinders - much better. I used an electric solenoid (parker) and electric foot pedal. I bolted the solenoid to the front of the shear and put quick connects on the solenoid so I could use the setup for my corner notcher too. I had to put flow controls on the cylinders to stop them from raming up and down. One of the best upgrades I have ever done. Only problem is you use a buttload of air when doing lots of cuts. I run the compressor around 150 psi as well. I am either going to upgrade to hydraulic shear or screw compressor next. Pics are from my phone so may not be too helpful.

[cactassdupree]

Originally Posted by Shoneyboy

I have read several post about with questions about this on this great site. I want to convert my stomp shear to air. I have read some old post about what I would need to convert the shear, 2-4” hydraulic cylinders (E-bay $200.00), a pneumatic foot peddle ($60.00), two regulators (shop extras) and some air hose/fittings(shop extras). I had planned on using one regulator one the inlet side and one on the out let side to slow the exhaust so it doesn’t actuate too fast. Would anyone have a recommendation on how to install it to the shear? Most of what I do in my shop is 26-24gage galvanized, but every now and then I have to cut 16 gage black iron 48”. Before I screwed anything up, I thought I would ask and hope someone that has done this before would give their thoughts. Thanks for the help ShoneyBoy

save the $ unlesss U have alot of cuts and keep on stompin . dupree

[Shoneyboy]

Originally Posted by jilt

I converted my Chinese brown boggs 52" a few years ago. I used a couple of air cylinders I got off ebay. Just recently I upgraded it to larger, better cylinders. It works great but I only cut 22, 24, and 26 guage. The old cylinders were just a bit under sized and I needed to help some of the 22 ga cuts. It now has (2) 2 1/2" x 12" cylinders - much better. I used an electric solenoid (parker) and electric foot pedal. I bolted the solenoid to the front of the shear and put quick connects on the solenoid so I could use the setup for my corner notcher too. I had to put flow controls on the cylinders to stop them from raming up and down. One of the best upgrades I have ever done. Only problem is you use a buttload of air when doing lots of cuts. I run the compressor around 150 psi as well. I am either going to upgrade to hydraulic shear or screw compressor next. Pics are from my phone so may not be too helpful.

jilt-Thanks for the information and the pictures, I hope to have the extra money soon to do this upgrade. I have school and book fees to pay for this month. So I hope to have this project on the table the first of next month, sooner if I can pick up some extra work. Work has been slow around here, but I have a couple new projects that hopefully will take me in a new direction and bring in some work and money. You said that you may upgrade to a Hydraulic set-up. I had been thinking about that way too. Harbor Freight has a 1hp electric hydraulic pressure pump for 319.99. This would take out the need/cost for the air compressor. I'm unsure if it will work or not and to put out the money on a hunch is a concern right now. What's do you think???? Here is a link to the hyd pump that they offer…..http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-el...ump-46169.html To cactassdupree If this new venture works out I will have 1000's of cuts. So this small addition will be a starting point to hopefully a new shear.

[musheentooner]

I would avoid the small hydraulic unit. It doesn't have the capacity you're looking for. The reservoir is too small, so after a short period of time using it, the oil would become pretty hot - not so good for hydraulic oil. Even though it has adequate pressure, I suspect that the pump doesn't flow much volume of oil, either, so your shear would be pretty slow. I think 2 or 3 hp would be significanly better, particularly with a larger volume pump, and at least a 5 gallon reservoir. Lockformer used to market a conversion kit to add hydraulics to a Tennsmith, Roper (Pexto), or Wysong stomp shear. It was pricey, but it did the job. Having installed 2 of them myself, I would not recommend the procedure for anyone who is not an above average mechanic. Stick to pneumatic operation - you can get pretty good speed, and the first-cost is less expensive. Investment in a quality compressor will also provide an additional benefit by powering other handy tools in the shop. When using pneumatic cylinders, I suggest that you stay with the advice for (2) 4" cylinders. They will provide good power when cutting heavier materials. 3" cylinders could be used, too, but to get the same power, the lower mounting point needs to be farther away from the pedal's pivot point, so they will need to have a longer stroke. Be VERY careful about powering a stomp shear, because the moving foot pedal can be really dangerous. You would be wise to cut off the pedal near the lower attachment point of the cyllinder. If you ever need to re-attach it, you can always use a strong metal bar to make a bolt-on splice. To control the speed, I recommend using exhaust mufflers that have an adjustable restricting capability, so that you're restricting the exhaust, not the supply air. When a cylinder's operating under a load, it makes the operation a lot smoother.

cactassdupree's got a good point, though; unless you're using the shear for a total of 1 to 1.5 hours a day or more, there are probably better ways to improve your overall productivity with the hundreds of $$ you'll save by not powering your shear. Just my $0.02

[jilt]

I agree with musheentooner on the hydraulic conversion bit. I would only consider this if it was a factory made one - too much calculating flow and pressures. Hydraulic could really frig up your shear if you didn't have it just right - at least with air you only get so much force. I removed the foot pedal and put a shield on the front to stop yourself from getting hurt too. I don't see where a few hundred invested would be a waste even if you don't do 1000's of cuts. It is convenient to touch a foot switch and still hold your sheet without moving it for precise cuts. One of the other reasons I did the conversion too was because there was some adjustment bolts on the front of the shear that I managed to imprint into my knee once - I lost some time in the shop waiting for my knee to heal. I tend to tinker with many different projects like this so most of the parts I needed were kicking around the shop.

[b.c.tinbasher]

After I found this discussion a few weeks ago, I began planning to convert my old Pexto 52" 16 ga. jump shear to pneumatic. The main reason is it is too hard to shear the heavier gauges alone. I usually get some help, two 250 lbers on the pedal and she cuts 16 gauge okay. Another peeve; if you have a long sheet overhanging the front you can't get a good centered jump on the foot pedal. If I need one good reason to cut off the foot pedal once the conversion is done, it is so my shins can heal. I keep banging one or the other on the sharp leading edge of the pedal. Ouch.
It would of course be too easy to put some edge trim on the pedal. At least I have not (yet) 'imprinted' the adjustment bolts on a knee, that sounds painful!
I like the idea of sheeting across the front opening with metal, not only safer, but it would look much more finished as well.
I have already purchased the parts; two 3" dia x 8" stroke cylinders, on sale for $66.00 each, and a pneumatic foot pedal, $40.00. Both items from Princess Auto.
As for air consumption, I wonder if an additional tank would help?
I have an extra 60 gallon air compressor tank that I plan to pipe into my existing system, the thinking being that with more volume capacity, the compressor would not have to cycle as often.

[roofermarc]

Originally Posted by b.c.tinbasher

After I found this discussion a few weeks ago, I began planning to convert my old Pexto 52" 16 ga. jump shear to pneumatic. The main reason is it is too hard to shear the heavier gauges alone. I usually get some help, two 250 lbers on the pedal and she cuts 16 gauge okay. Another peeve; if you have a long sheet overhanging the front you can't get a good centered jump on the foot pedal. If I need one good reason to cut off the foot pedal once the conversion is done, it is so my shins can heal. I keep banging one or the other on the sharp leading edge of the pedal. Ouch.
It would of course be too easy to put some edge trim on the pedal. At least I have not (yet) 'imprinted' the adjustment bolts on a knee, that sounds painful!
I like the idea of sheeting across the front opening with metal, not only safer, but it would look much more finished as well.
I have already purchased the parts; two 3" dia x 8" stroke cylinders, on sale for $66.00 each, and a pneumatic foot pedal, $40.00. Both items from Princess Auto.
As for air consumption, I wonder if an additional tank would help?
I have an extra 60 gallon air compressor tank that I plan to pipe into my existing system, the thinking being that with more volume capacity, the compressor would not have to cycle as often.

Can you post some pics of the job in progress, as to which I/we can see and learn? I haven't used one of these sizes of hydraulic or air operated shears and was wondering if they work real nice? We had the 36" pexto ft. shear, boss man greased it up, tarped it up and put it outside under the shed. Said it was a real pain to use, the drops would hit the floor. I've been trying to buy it from the new owner, and if I get it, I will put it under power. I want to pay 500 bucks and not a cent more, that's what he payed for it.

[roofermarc]

Originally Posted by musheentooner

I would avoid the small hydraulic unit. It doesn't have the capacity you're looking for. The reservoir is too small, so after a short period of time using it, the oil would become pretty hot - not so good for hydraulic oil. Even though it has adequate pressure, I suspect that the pump doesn't flow much volume of oil, either, so your shear would be pretty slow. I think 2 or 3 hp would be significanly better, particularly with a larger volume pump, and at least a 5 gallon reservoir. Lockformer used to market a conversion kit to add hydraulics to a Tennsmith, Roper (Pexto), or Wysong stomp shear. It was pricey, but it did the job. Having installed 2 of them myself, I would not recommend the procedure for anyone who is not an above average mechanic. Stick to pneumatic operation - you can get pretty good speed, and the first-cost is less expensive. Investment in a quality compressor will also provide an additional benefit by powering other handy tools in the shop. When using pneumatic cylinders, I suggest that you stay with the advice for (2) 4" cylinders. They will provide good power when cutting heavier materials. 3" cylinders could be used, too, but to get the same power, the lower mounting point needs to be farther away from the pedal's pivot point, so they will need to have a longer stroke. Be VERY careful about powering a stomp shear, because the moving foot pedal can be really dangerous. You would be wise to cut off the pedal near the lower attachment point of the cyllinder. If you ever need to re-attach it, you can always use a strong metal bar to make a bolt-on splice. To control the speed, I recommend using exhaust mufflers that have an adjustable restricting capability, so that you're restricting the exhaust, not the supply air. When a cylinder's operating under a load, it makes the operation a lot smoother.

cactassdupree's got a good point, though; unless you're using the shear for a total of 1 to 1.5 hours a day or more, there are probably better ways to improve your overall productivity with the hundreds of $$ you'll save by not powering your shear. Just my $0.02

I can see why this guys a professional member with just a handful of post's, he should get an award for displaying his knowledge. I recommend everyone to read his post.