bordontn wrote:

Pricer, That was years ago.However, I just made this evening a scale model...3"=1'-0"
The sides are straight pcs.with a 30degree cut each end.The bow & stern are cut to match.
I paned ,then knocked up the sides to the ends.Clamped a piece on the bottom & scribed around,
adding for the bottom seam.Paned & knocked it up. The bottom does not turn out flat.The bow & stern
on a full size would be about 2" above center. I'll try to get a photo on here later.
The itinerant tinker........bordontn
There are some fotos in the sheet metal gallery of some things I built..

marky wrote:

Looking at the pictures of the hull made from card if you made the pattern in 4 parts ,2 parts from thesheerline to the line marked chine cut straight from stem to stern,the oter beingthe two bottom parts joined at the verticle centre giving another long pattern,these could then be rolled as if it were part of a conical frustrum.Hope this makes some sense aw ra best Marky

richmalerba wrote:

Attached are 2 patterns for your boat price. I made the first pattern the way Origami is done. Simply fold the lower vertical seem so that it is flush then fold up the side 90 degrees. The transom plate is usually welded on as a separate piece and the stem forms as the two sides come together. In your case I thought it would be simpler to leave on material to fold a bow stem and transom. Use one on the port and the other on the starboard. The boat could be built out of only two sheets. Here are the difficulties: since most boats done with this technique have a v hull the weld in the center is made stronger by the form of the structure. You could over come this weakness in the flat hull by putting rectangular bar stock or a strip of thick plate down the center on the underside of the hull. This would allow you to rivet both sides together as well as provide a “keel” that would reduce sideward skating. The second pattern shows the full bottom with extensions for the bow and transom. You could make the boat out of three pieces and have a solid bottom by attaching the sides to a solid bottom sheet. I hope this helps. I also ran your hull shape through a great piece of free software called Chine hull designer by Carlson. It also calculated your hull to draw 2” at 600lbs.

Quote:


Was this model made from sheet metal?

Quote:


Was this model made from sheet metal?

bordontn wrote:

bordontn wrote:

bordontn wrote:

Pricer....I'm not going to solder my model in case I want to use it for a planter If I did I would do the inside with a hot iron to flow it into the seam. An elec. iron will work on thin metal. Something like a seam requires a lot of heat.Your e-iron would have to be big enough to hold a lot of heat. I can't say what wattage. I use a burner from a small bathroom gas heater to heat mine. I sometimes use a 5# set which is 2 1/2# each. They're sold in pairs. On my lap joints I use one that is about 3/4" square. I've probably have 15+.Bought a flea mkts.I use muriatic acid for galv. mtl & "Ruby Fluid",zinc cloride for copper as a flux.For cleaning as I solder I dip the iron into sal-ammoniac dissolved in water. To tin your iron before use; heat as hot as it will get.(your e-iron)Flame broiled copper should be dull red.Clean w/file.Rub on piece of sal-ammoniac while melting solder on iron.As you're soldering don't overheat your iron. It will burn tinning off & you can start over! Try it you'll like it!! bordontn "the itinerant tinker"
Do you have any books?Lindsay Publications Inc. has reproductions of some old sht. mtl. related books.Practical Metal Plate Work.!st published in 1907...(ISBN 1-55918-159-1)Thas a good'n.