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Grue
Post subject:Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 05, 2004 - 05:10 AM #1173
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Looking at the old cars pre 1930, most of them had wooden frames.

Volume production made these frames obsolete - huge presses for ther body panels.

I'm wondering if the best way to go here would be to build a boat around a wooden frame to get the feel of a steel boat.

Grue

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pricer
Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 05, 2004 - 05:26 AM #1175
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I think that is a good idea. It would be nice to see the shape and the frame giving the boat a rigid platform or jig to work on. When you talk about hammering over a seam, how wide would the material need to be? I am beginning to have an intrest in aircraft sheet metal.I think it would be very useful in building boats.

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Bud
Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 05, 2004 - 11:20 AM #1178
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I'm going to jump in on this issue later..good talk! But I'm leaving for a bash at the fair grounds..two days of lounging and County Music Wink No computer necessary!


Have a great weekend!

Bud

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Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 05, 2004 - 02:47 PM #1180
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What if the wooden frame were built like this. I would take two 12’ 2x8 pine boards and build a strong back . The boards would stand up edge ways and they would run parallel to each other about two feet apart. Blocks would be cut and screwed to the strong back to hold he boards together. Once this is ready, plywood bulkheads would be cut to match the boats profile and squared and plumbed up on the strong back to reveal the boats shape. What would we cover the surface of the hull frame with? I am thinking ¼” plywood. Maybe the chines and gunwales will need extra support as well, especially at the bow curve where the seam must be hammered over.

If the seam in question on the bow curve were a ½” wide, when hammering over what is the best way to control the bend radius? Would it be wise to secure the seam at strategic locations and leave the chine frame out on the bow section so a dolly bar can be held , with the hull upside down on the frame, under the seam and work the flange over bottom or the side, which ever seems to be best. I think it would be best in my case to add the additional material for the seam to the bottom edge. This would keep the bottom of the boat slick. When landing on sandy beaches, the seam would be more protected on the side of the boat, this has been a problem for me in the past with aluminum boats. I may even build some type of protection into the bow, a skid plate if you will to keep the sand from detaching the finish on the metal.

I have also considered building the hull from paint grip steel. It is my understanding that the material is galvanized and then processed so paint will adhere to the surface. I don’t know how this will affect the soldering process.

Will a solder joint on the seam that I have described be strong enough without all of the rivets I had originally thought of putting in the seam? And the questions just keep on coming….

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marky
Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 07, 2004 - 03:28 PM #1187
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is the boat bieng built using clinker type construction or bieng plated like a ship with strake plates etc ,if it clinker [like a rowing boat ]then a frame would help ,plated might be more difficult as smaller plates are used rather than strips which would be arcs rather than straight .aw ra best marky
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Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 07, 2004 - 03:38 PM #1188
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sorry answered this before i saw the drawings ,to seal it rather than soldering or as well as soldering paint the inside surface with taronce it sets nothing will move it
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Grue
Post subject:RE: Wooden Frames PostPosted: Jun 07, 2004 - 08:52 PM #1189
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The aircraft guys seal integral fuel tanks with stuff they call "cacky sh**" much better than pitch, I'll chase down a name & supplier.

Grue

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