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Post subject:more advice on slitters
 Posted: May 08, 2008 - 09:06 PM #7541
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Joined: Jan 25, 2007
Posts: 39
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| i have a choice between a lockformer 16 ga and a wilder 16 ga slitter, does any one have an opinion on which one is better, my second question is we do from time to time fab 16 ga duct for hoods, will a slitter really cut this thick metal, or is it like my shear that says it can ,reality is two big guys need to stand on the pedal to do it? i would like a power shear but just cant afford it now, things are pretty slow. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 08, 2008 - 10:48 PM #7543
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Power User
Joined: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 193
Location: Illinois
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I would check the guide on each then make the decision.
If my experience with 24/26 ga is an indication, you might have a hard time getting a cut edge free of distortion... but maybe there are some adjustments to address that.
I found it quite difficult to get a nice straight cut as the end of the sheet always managed to push out a bit.
If you are depending on this piece of equipment to fabricate parts ready to weld, I would run a test piece or two first... and not little strips, either. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 09, 2008 - 05:01 PM #7544
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Power User
Joined: Apr 17, 2004
Posts: 247
Location: Central Ohio
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| My experience is similar to yours danski. In fact I will use a slitter only as a last resort because of the very issues you cite. Wavy distorted edge, no straight cut, ragged edge not fit for finish work. |
_________________
Steve
Blissfully Ignorant Copperhead
www.copperthings.com
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 09, 2008 - 08:58 PM #7545
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Power User
Joined: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 193
Location: Illinois
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drizz-
You might want to check the classifieds here and other places like ebay for a hydraulic conversion jump shear. There is a Whitney-Jensen listed on ebay at this time for $1k. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 10, 2008 - 11:13 AM #7548
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Joined: Jan 25, 2007
Posts: 39
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| thanks for the replies, i think a slitter would be a mistake for me, i going to go with the shear even if its only a 6 foot. looking back at all the shops and equipment i seen and used, no shop had a slitter and i would guess thats why. i was tempted by cost. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 10, 2008 - 02:36 PM #7549
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Power User
Joined: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 193
Location: Illinois
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Slitters have their place.
A slitter is a good tool to have if you make your own ductwork and want more than a 48" width... or other items where absolute precision or a nice distortion free finished edge is not required. There is no other cost effective way to cut sheet stock down to size quickly.
I have made 1000's of feet of ductwork with a slitter... and you need at least 20' of linear space to run 8' sheets through one. Flipping the sheet end for end helps to even out the cut if multiple passes are required (ex: cutting 8" strips for flashing).
I have found slitters to be more common in my experience than large shears. Shops I have worked at do 16ga black iron 4' at a time using a 48" hydraulic shear to cut it. If needed, pieces are assembled at the shop before delivery to the site.
Even if you have a plasma table or a 10' shear, you still need the capacity to bend long lengths of material. I have not yet experienced a sheet metal shop with an apron brake or a press brake that bends 90* end to end (nor have they wanted to spend the time to fix the problem). It is much easier to correct deficiencies over a few joints of shorter ducting than dealing with a twisted 8' joint.
Other guys sub out the entire black iron portion of the job or just the fabrication end because the tooling to work the metal isn't cheap if that work isn't done often enough.
An Engel Shopmaster might be the ticket- never tried one with 16ga material though.
If you are looking for a low buck approach, consider a small plasma cutter and a nonconductive guide for the business end. You can get a small Miller with a built in compressor for short money. Sheet support for cutting needs to be considered. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 10, 2008 - 02:46 PM #7551
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Power User
Joined: May 16, 2005
Posts: 166
Location: Atlantic, Iowa
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It took awile to find but, look at this old post:
http://www.thesheetmetalshop.com/index. ... highlight=
It is very criticle to have your table height to the slitter. I can cut aluminum Rollex to 18 ga. galv. perfect and burr free on this old Wilder slitter. The worst part of this type of slitter is that you make one cut and have to drag the sheet back for the next cut. The cost factor and amount of work load is your deciding factor here. For me, (a small fab shop) the wilder has been great for me going strong for 27 years and only 1 blade change. Wilder model 1624.  |
_________________
Stickman,
The thin tinman.
www.martinsheetmetal.com
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 13, 2008 - 12:04 AM #7559
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Joined: Jan 25, 2007
Posts: 39
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| I quess there are pros and cons of using slitters, my biggest concern was the cut quality and i see that with the right table it may be ok, and second, will it cut 16ga?. Maybe a slitter can do the job, worst case sell it off if im not happy. It would be a lot cheaper than buying a 8 ft shear and rewiring my fuse panel thats already in bad shape. The 52' shear i have works great for all small cuts. |
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Post subject:RE: more advice on slitters
Posted: May 13, 2008 - 02:39 PM #7560
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Joined: Feb 27, 2008
Posts: 7
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drizz1234,
I would like to respond to some of the comments above. You may not know, but RAMS offers a 16 Ga. Slitter with some unique features that no other manufacturer offers. Which has become RAMS number one selling machine.
16 Ga. mild steel is not an issue with our Slitter. Because of our THK slide rail we are able to hold width tolerances of
+/- .007". No one else in the industry is close to that.
Some of the comments about ragged and wavy edges is because the blade gap is too large. The blade gap should be no more than .002". If the material is wavy it is typically the blades are dull and they are having a hard time shearing through the metal causing the blades to walk on top of the material. One of the other features that RAMS offers is lapped blades. This is a stronger edge than having them ground. We also offer a blade exchange program, you send us your old blades and we send you a new set out for $100.00.
The other feature feature that makes this machine unique is after you sharpen the blades there is no need for shims. We have an adjustble top blade that is easily set to your .002" gap in minutes. There is no need to find the perfect shim to take up the gap. RAMS is the only Slitter that has a table top to give added support to the work piece.
Also with all RAMS equipment we offer a 2 YEAR WARRANTY. See our web link above. |
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